March 15, 1998

Spring Fashion; the printed page

Butterflies are a sign of spring. So is a butterfly dress, as is witnessed on the cover of the Florida Magazine spring fashion issue in today's editions of The Orlando Sentinel.

The photo of Nandini standing at a garden gate became the consensus choice for our cover after we had looked over the film for several days. The dress certainly looked like a Florida spring and the composition fit the cover needs for type. The textured lighting, created by sunlight streaming through tree branches, added depth to the photo. And the kicker may have been that Nandini herself is so very beautiful and exotic.

The pose at the gate also subtly implied a story or a moment - something that the best fashion photography achieves. The viewer could wonder where the girl is going, or is she welcoming an arriving guest. This narrative possibility involves the viewer and thereby invites them into the magazine.

click here fore full size image

The March 15 cover of Florida Magazine; The butterfly dress proved to have the strongest look of Spring. Note how the art director used a typeface in the headline that reflected the spirals in the iron gate. Photo by Tom Burton/ The Orlando Sentinel

Our second choice - the one used in the opening spread, was also very pretty. Perhaps it was too pretty for the cover. As one of our magazine columnists said, the garden gate picture is a fashion photo; the other picture could just be a portrait of a pretty girl. That hard-to-define narrative wasn't as strong.

The opening spread inside the magazine sets the tone for the layout. The photo on the left had been considered for the cover. Photo by Tom Burton/The Orlando Sentinel.

The slinky purple dress was the most fashionable image and it did run a full page inside. But the dress is one that could only be worn by young women with very thin bodies. There is a feeling that the women who read our magazine are more conservative so that dress on the cover would turn them away. Personally, I disagree. I think everyone would be interested in clothes that are so distinctive that they border on being costumes. But hey, they think the mythical suburban housewife wants something more practical.

The studio photos of sports-themed styles were never considered strongly for the cover because it was the secondary story. And for me, the clothes weren't so distinctive that the photos could make a grabber cover.

A secondary fashion story opened with this spread. The look of the studio photography contrasted with the garden location selected for the cover story. Photo by Tom Burton/The Orlando Sentinel

Now that it's been printed, the issue seems to be successful. The magazine editors have already said how much they like it. The good news is that we survived it and it will be another six months or so before we have to plan another fashion marathon.

And because I've been too sketchy on the details, here are some tech notes;

The photos in the secondary story were all made in the photo studio, using multiple strobe lighting. I avoided using soft boxes to diffuse the light because I wanted a crisper look. Instead, I used direct reflectors with a single layer of frosted diffusion gel. The garden location utilized morning sunlight. The one exception - which was against all the rules - was the slinky purple dress. It's one of the few lovely pictures I've shot at high noon. I used a reflector panel for the location photos - one side white and the other silver - to reflect light into dark areas and thereby brighten the shadows.

Both locations were photographed using a Hasselblad medium format camera. The film is larger than the 35mm we use for most assignments and it allows us to run a photo full page, or even across two pages, without losing image quality. I used Fuji Provia 100 ASA slide film which provides excellent color saturation and sharpness. When I can, I use this camera/film combination for magazine assignments because the cheap newsprint we print on sucks all the life out of a picture. The more I can put into the image on the front end, the better it survives on the page.

Tom Burton

earlier journal home later journal
Tom Burton
< twburton@aol.com >
Senior Staff Photographer
The Orlando (FL.) Sentinel
Other journals by Tom Burton
347 February 18, 2000 Love
341 January 6, 2000

Baby, Baby Baby

333 Is Photojournalism Dead? Tom Burton My comments today will reflect both my love for photojournalism and my respect for its basic tenets.
327 November 8, 1999 Roller Coaster
319 September 19, 1999 The headline on Tuesday’s newspaper was direct. PREPARE YOURSELF
301 July 15, 1999 Burton Rosevear
280 May 10, 1999 I am a certified platypus. It's time to confess.
262 April 16, 1999 "Thank Mr. Burton"
258 March 30, 1999

A "Typical" Day?

 

238 February 27, 1999 Time
227 February 14, 1999 And by the way; the subject - Zora Neal Hurston - has been dead for almost 40 years.
209 January 29, 1999 Ok, I’ll answer the most-asked questions first:
200 January 9, 1999 Could there be a photo-columnist?
186 December 12, 1998 The Nutcracker
167 October 29, 1998 The launch of Discovery and STS-95
166 October 28, 1998 Huber is one of a handful of photographers who has been setting remotes since the very first shuttle launch in 1981.
156 October 9, 1998 The waiting is the hardest part
147 September 15, 1998 When we edited the film, this last photo kept jumping up at us. It was far less planned than any cover we’ve done - in fact, it was probably the least calculated photo of the entire shoot - but it had that certain "ooomph" we wanted.
139 August 28, 1998 A firefighter returns
128 August 4, 1998 How to be a Model - or Just Look Like One!
124 July 30, 1998 I recently did something I’ve never done before. I went to a press conference without my cameras.
123 July 29, 1998 Some of the newest members of our staff were surprised at the persistence of the British press. They just won’t stop and they want everything. It is quite the clash in cultures when this kind of story goes global.
108 July 6, 1998 For more than a month, it hasn't rained much more than a spit in Central Florida
106 June 30, 1998 Yesterday I was part of the pack, looking for the celebrity of the moment and facing Armageddon.
105 June 27, 1998 At my newspaper, we run photography-based illustrations to illustrate stories that don't lend themselves to documentary styled photojournalism.
94 June 14, 1998 "I'm on vacation..."
81 May 29, 1998 When I decided to shoot a figure drawing class, I knew that I’d be up against some newspaper taboos.
75 May 22, 1998 An open letter to Joe Jaszewski
69 April 30, 1998 The Last Word
61 April 16, 1998 Femme Fatale
55 April 5, 1998 Finding "life" in photojournalism
38 March 15, 1998

Spring Fashion - The Printed Page

March 6 , 1998 Spring Fashion - a final editWhich photo do you think would make the best cover?

February 27, 1998 Spring Fashion - the fifth day As a photographer, I try to

anticipate anything that can go wrong. February 26, 1998 Spring Fashion - the fourth day The shoot went very well and there may be one or two more contenders for the cover

February 25, 1998Spring Fashion - the third day...the most debated, discussed and sometimes over-thought decision is which photo will be on the cover.

February 24, 1998Spring Fashion - the second dayBut during a fashion shoot like today, I shoot Polaroids proofs on everything

February 23, 1998Spring Fashion - the first dayThe phone rang at 6:30 a.m...The obvious question was, "what's going on?"

20 February 19, 1998 While photojournalists seek to document the reality of their world, fashion photographers conspire with beautiful models and clever stylists to create a fantasy.
10 February 1, 1998 Last night, I had a dream
8 January 28, 1998 I’ve found that my best work happens when I surprise myself
 
Contributor since 1998
 
   


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